I've been told my some friends that i smell, apparently a lot more people think this too. They didn't tell me if it was my body oder or the spray i use, but its really got to me "/
Okay, so i take a bath around 4 times in a week (i really clean my whole body, with soap/gel/sponge etc Then i spray my whole body with this new ted baker spray/perfume. I wear my uniform for 2/3 consecutive days then change for my clean uniform (considering i only have 2 sets of uniform it works out that each one gets washed, dried and ironed in time for the next)
I always keep myself well groomed, i wash my hair and face once maybe twice a day, and i brush my teeth almost after every meal.
Could you give me advice on how i could possibly change my cleansing routine above?
If so, please feel free to answer.
Thanks
(i own a shower)
sorry, i meant i DON'T own a shower lol
I know it sounds kinda weird but this might be true....... Have you always taken so many baths? Did the smell seem to start when you did ? has it gotten worse sense you did? Well here is what I am getting at and other people might understand this. Have you ever noticed that the more often you wash your hair the quicker it gets "greasy"/ dirty? It is true because your body starts creating its " natural" oils faster. So if you skip a day of showering, your hair gets nasty faster then if you usually take a shower every other day. I am think this is the same with your body. You bathe 4 times a week meaning your body is rejuvenation its natural oils faster, so the day you don't take a bath the natural oils and smells of your body come faster then normal people. Either take shower/bath EVERY day, ween yourself off so many baths or create a routine ( ie every other day). Seems like nothing is working so I say try it! Also used good deodorant and lotion, no perfume it just tries to cover up the oder. Also use strong smelling soup. Hope this might help!!
What is soap? Soap is a substance that’s used for cleansing and it is made when a chemical reaction occurs between lye (Sodium Hydroxide) and fat.
Soap got its name when the Romans at ‘Mount Sapo’, a popular location for animal sacrifices, discovered it. Rain mixed the animal fat residue (tallow from cattle) with the burned wood on clay and a chemical reaction occurred. Women living on the banks of the Tiber river discovered that clothes which they washed using this substance were much cleaner and cleaned with much less effort.
When making soap, there are some substances that are necessary for this process. Let’s take a look at them.
Fats – fats are oils from animals or vegetables. Animal fats are fats from beef tallow (of course this is less animal friendly and less commonly used these days). Vegetable oils that are most commonly used for soap making are olive, coconut, cocoa, and palm oils.
Lye - (Sodium Hydroxide) or another common name, caustic soda. Lye needs to be dissolved in water in order to actively react with.
Water – The best water to use for soap making is distilled water. Hard water contains minerals and salts that may interfere with this chemical reaction. It is always recommended to follow a given recipe and measure the water and the lye. Not having enough water may result in hard, dry soap, and too much water may yield too soft of a soap.
Essential oils and herbs - essential oils add fragrance to soap. In some cases skin-sensitive people use soap with no fragrance. When herbs are added to soap they add color, change the texture and contribute their qualities for relaxing and healing skin. Some herbs work as exfoliates.
Tools – Stainless steel pot (never aluminum!), 2 wooden spoons, wide mouthed glass jar (at least 2 quarts), thermometer that reads between 80’F – 110’F, shoe box or cardboard box about this size, plastic wrap, safety glasses, and rubber gloves. Avoid using these tools for eating; dedicate them only for soap making. Also clean them separately from your kitchen utensils. First step – Making the lye solution This step requires the most precaution. Wearing safety glasses and rubber gloves is a must. To prevent inhaling the lye fumes, it is best to do this outdoors. Start by adding lye gently to distilled cold water while stirring carefully. You shoul not use hot water to begin with, since lye heats up on it’s own in reaction to contact with the cold water and it’s undesirable for this solution to boil. Also, do not do the opposite of adding water to lye as this may cause explosion. If you see a thin layer of white crust at the bottom of the jar, keep stirring gently until all the lye is dissolved in the water.
Second Step - Melting the Fats Melt the oils (fats) in a stainless steel pot and only when melted, begin adding olive oil while stirring well.
Third Step – Mixing the Lye Solution with the Fats Using the safety glasses and rubber gloves, measure the temperature of lye solution and that of the oils. If the oils’ temperature is high, you can immerse this pot into a sink of cool water to slightly cool the temperature. Some soap makers suggest that the temperature of both substances should be between 100’F – 110’F. We recommend measuring between 95’F – 98’F. When both substances reach the same temperature, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils. Patiently stir until the substances are fully mixed (This may take some time. Patience is critical at this stage).
Fourth Step – Adding Fragrances, colorants and Herbs This is when fragrances, colorants or herbs are added to the mixture. Simply follow the amounts in you recipe. There’s no exact amount of time for how long to stir, it can vary from five to forty minutes. Stir until you see ‘trace’. Trace means when you pick up the spoon and are able to draw on the surface by dripping from the spoon. A successful trace should enable you to see the drops for few seconds before they disappear back into the mixture. The mixture should be as thick as pudding.
Fifth Step – Saponification Pour the mixture into a plastic wrap lined box or a shoebox. Cover the box with its lid and then cover the lid with a blanket. It is very important to not disturb the mixture until saponification is done. At this stage the substance is turns from a mixture into solid soap. It has to sit for 18-48 hours while it releases heat.
Sixth Step – Remodeling the Soap After saponification, remove the lid and the blanket, and set it aside for another 12 hours. The fresh and fragrant soap is now ready to be removed from the mold. If you see a thin layer of oil and a white crust that looks like chalk, it indicates that you succeeded in making a good batch. If you see a layer, which is grossly separated, wrap it and throw it away as this batch has failed. Using rubber gloves, cut the soap into bars, or shape it like clay. You can also mold it with cookie cutters or stamp it. Set the soap aside again to cure for two to three weeks. The soap is ready to use then.
About the Author
Iris Fuchs - SoapMakingStore.com, specializing in the highest quality soap making kits, soap making supplies, soap making training books, DVD's and informational material.
Visit http://www.soapmakingstore.com
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